How to Use a Drill as a Screwdriver?

Yes, a cordless drill works as a screwdriver when it accepts a screwdriver bit, runs in forward, and uses a low torque setting.

For the full breakdown, see our best Battery Operated Drill Screwdriver guide.

Nearly every cordless drill sold today is actually a drill/driver, which means driving screws is one of its core jobs. The trick is that a drill’s instinct is to spin fast and dig in — the opposite of what a screwdriver needs. Matching the drill’s speed and torque to the fastener is the difference between a clean, flush screw and a stripped head or a cracked workpiece.

Set Your Drill for Screwdriving

Start with the three settings that turn a drill into a screwdriver: rotation, speed, and the torque collar.

Rotation: the direction switch above the trigger should point to forward, which drives screws clockwise. Reverse is only for removing screws.

Speed: choose the low-speed setting (usually marked “1”) so the screwdriving torque stays controllable. High speed spins fast and tends to overdrive or strip screws.

Torque collar: the numbered ring behind the chuck is the clutch. Turn it to the lowest number or to the screwdriver icon if your drill has one.

Fit the Bit in the Chuck

Use a standard 1-inch Phillips or flathead screwdriver bit, or a magnetic bit holder for better grip. Insert it into the chuck the same way you would a drill bit — open the chuck, seat the bit, and tighten until it holds. Open the chuck far enough that the bit seats straight; a bit held at an angle cams out of the screw head. Replace any bit that looks worn or rounded; a worn bit slips more and strips screw heads.

Drive the Screw

Place the bit firmly in the screw head, keeping the drill in line with the fastener, not at an angle. Squeeze the trigger and let the drill push the screw in while you apply steady forward pressure.

• Keep pressure on: light forward pressure keeps the bit seated and prevents camming out of the head.
• Stop at flush: release the trigger when the screw head is level with the surface. The clutch clicks when it reaches its torque limit; that click is your signal to stop.
• Go slow: let the drill do the work. Pushing hard or squeezing the trigger fully on low torque just clicks the clutch without driving the screw.

If the screw won’t seat at the lowest torque, raise the collar one number at a time and retry. Drive a few test screws into scrap wood first to find the right collar position before working on your actual project; this is the single best habit for clean results.

For hardwood or any first-time screwdriving, drill a pilot hole first. A pilot hole lets the screw seat with less force and reduces the chance of splitting the wood.

Common Mistakes That Strip Screws

Most screwdriving failures trace back to a few avoidable errors:

• Torque set too high: the clutch never clicks, and the screw buries into the workpiece or strips. Start low and climb.
• Driving at an angle: the bit slips out and chews the screw head. Keep the drill aligned with the fastener.
• Overdriving: the head penetrates the surface, weakening the joint. Stop the moment the head sits flush.

These mistakes happen to everyone once; the fix is always the same — slow down, lower the torque, and stop at flush.