How to Install an Entry Door Lockset | Prep, Drilling & Fit

Installing an entry door lockset requires a 2-1/8 inch face bore, a 1 inch edge bore, and a latch mortised flush with the door edge.

For the full breakdown, see our best 2-Pack Entry Door Knob and Deadbolt Lock Set guide.

Replacing or installing an entry door lockset is a satisfying weekend project that most DIYers finish in under two hours. The job breaks down into door preparation, latch installation, and hardware mounting. Getting the prep right matters more than anything else — a perfectly installed knob can’t fix a latch that doesn’t align with the strike plate.

What You Need Before Drilling

Start by confirming your door’s thickness and the lockset’s backset requirement. Backset is the distance from the door edge to the center of the bore hole — standard US residential doors use 2-3/8 inches or 2-3/4 inches. Many modern locksets ship with adjustable latches that work for either measurement.

You’ll also need to pick the right height. Locksets typically sit 35 to 38 inches from the finished floor. If you’re adding a deadbolt above it, position the deadbolt 4 to 6 inches above the lockset for comfortable reach and clean spacing.

Gather these tools before you start: a drill with hole saws sized for your hardware (usually 2-1/8 inch for the face bore and 1 inch for the edge bore), a chisel, a screwdriver, a tape measure, and a pencil. New doors need a backsaw or jigsaw for the optional faceplate mortise.

Step-by-Step Door Preparation

Lay the manufacturer’s template against the door face at your marked height. The template aligns the face bore and edge bore so you drill in the right spots. Mark the latch center on the door edge using the template’s folded edge as your guide.

Drill the large face bore through the door face. On a new solid door, drill from both sides to the center point — this prevents the wood from splitting or tearing out as the hole saw exits. Switch to the 1 inch hole saw and drill the edge bore into the door edge, stopping at the center of the face bore.

Insert the latch into the edge bore and trace around the faceplate with a utility knife. Chisel out this mortise to a depth matching the faceplate thickness so the plate sits flush with the door edge. A latch that protrudes will bind against the jamb; one set too deep looks sloppy and reduces security.

Installing the Latch and Hardware

Slide the latch into the edge bore with the beveled side of the bolt facing the door jamb. This orientation is critical — the bevel must face the closing direction so the bolt compresses as the door swings shut and springs into the strike plate. Install the latch backward and the door won’t latch at all.

Secure the latch faceplate with its screws, then position the exterior escutcheon or knob over the face bore. Schlage’s installation guidance emphasizes aligning any logo or thumbturn correctly before tightening. On the interior side, secure the hardware with the long self-guiding screws — these pull everything snug without stripping.

For entrance sets with levers, you may need to reverse the levers for correct inside/outside orientation. The Schlage manual notes that the lever orientation depends on your door’s handing, so check the instructions before you force anything. If the interior and exterior trim doesn’t seat flush, loosen the screws, adjust the alignment, and retighten gradually.

Where the latch lands on the jamb, mark the strike plate position. Chisel the jamb so the strike plate sits flush, then fasten it with the included screws. Schlage recommends optionally installing the reinforcement plate on the frame first if your hardware includes one — this adds stability where the bolt engages.

Testing and Final Adjustments

Test the lockset with the door open first, then closed. With the door open, the latch should extend and retract smoothly when you operate the knob or turn the thumbturn. With the door closed, the latch should engage the strike plate without rubbing against the edges of the opening.

When testing, check that the door doesn’t bind against the jamb and that the latch fully extends into the strike plate. If the latch catches on the plate’s lip, the strike plate needs slight repositioning — loosen its screws, shift it a millimeter or two, and retest. A properly aligned strike plate is the difference between a lock that feels solid and one that requires a shoulder to close.

These sets typically include both the passage and locking functions you need for front and back entries.

Be aware that metal doors handle some steps differently — the bore holes may require special mounting plates rather than screw-and-mortise installation. Always verify your specific hardware template before drilling, because exact steps vary slightly by manufacturer. Schlage provides detailed installation manuals and templates for every lockset it sells, including step-by-step deadbolt guidance for first-time installers. Schlage’s installation manuals and templates library covers deadbolts, knobs, and full entrance sets.