Mounting a new towel bar is one of those weekend jobs that looks harder than it is. The whole process comes down to marking, drilling, and tightening — and getting the bar level matters more than anything else. Whether you’re replacing a sagging rod or adding a second one near the shower, the steps below follow the sequence manufacturers use in their own instruction sheets.
What You Need Before You Start
Gather these tools first so you’re not hunting mid-project: a drill with assorted bits, a pencil, a level, a stud finder, and the hardware that came with your towel bar. Most kits include the mounting brackets, screws, wall anchors, and a small Allen wrench for the set screws.
- Stud finder — lets you aim at least one bracket at a solid wooden stud.
- Level — a crooked bar is the #1 DIY giveaway and the most common mistake.
- Correct drill bit — sized for the anchors you’re using, not the screw shaft.
The included hardware matters. Manufacturer instructions assume you’re using the exact screws and anchors from the box, and swapping in random ones from your toolbox can cause loose fittings or wall damage. If your kit lists a different size, follow that instead.
Finding Studs and Marking the Wall
Hold the mounting bracket or the included paper template against the wall at your desired height — 42 to 48 inches from the floor is a common range — and check for studs first. If you can shift the holder so at least one bracket lands on a stud, do it; direct-to-stud mounting is the strongest option.
When the bracket position is set, place your level on top of it and adjust until the bubble sits dead center. Mark each screw hole with a pencil. This five-second step is what separates a professional-looking install from a tilted one, and it’s the first thing every manufacturer instruction sheet tells you to do. Spacing between the brackets should match the towel bar’s length — the bar’s center-to-center measurement is built to fit the included brackets.
Drilling, Anchoring, and Mounting the Bar
Drill a pilot hole at each mark. If you hit a stud behind the drywall, you can skip the anchor and drive the screw straight into the wood. If the wall is hollow — typical for drywall in bathrooms — insert wall anchors into the holes before attaching anything. The hole size must match the anchor type; using the wrong bit leaves you with an anchor that won’t grip.
Fasten the mounting brackets to the wall with the screws, tightening them snug but not cranking them down. Over-tightening can strip the drywall or deform the bracket. Then slide the towel bar onto the brackets with the set screw facing downward, and tighten that screw with the included Allen wrench. The bottom-facing orientation keeps the screw hidden and makes removal easy later.
our tested picks for bathroom towel holders cover both options, including models that include anchors for drywall and sturdier bars meant for stud mounting. If you’re still choosing a holder, grab a bar whose included hardware and bracket spacing match the plan above — it saves a trip back to the store.
Finish by testing the bar: push it up and down lightly to confirm the bar holders catch on the brackets. It should feel solid with no wiggle. If a bracket feels loose, back out the screw, check the anchor, and re-drive it.
Working With Drywall vs. Studs
Stud mounting is always stronger, but most bathrooms don’t have a stud exactly where you want the bar. That’s what anchors are for. Standard drywall anchors handle a towel bar’s weight easily — the bar itself is light, and the load is mostly towels hanging from it.
- Direct to stud: drill a pilot hole, drive the screw, done. Strongest hold.
- Hollow drywall: drill the anchor-sized hole, tap in the anchor, then drive the screw.
- Adhesive-only bars: some products skip drilling entirely with strong double-sided tape, but they depend on the specific product and clean, dry tile or paint.
Cement tile and glass tile need a masonry bit and different anchors — if that’s your wall, check the product’s instructions before committing to a method. And when you’re ready to pick the holder itself, our tested picks for the best bath towel holders list which models ship with the right hardware and which need extras.
FAQs
What height should a towel bar be installed?
Most homeowners mount a towel bar 42 to 48 inches from the floor, measured to the bar itself or the top of the holder depending on the product. That range puts towels within easy reach for both the shower and the sink. Adjust upward if you’re tall or have kids who grab at low bars — the right height is the one that feels natural when you reach for it.
How much weight can a towel bar hold?
The weak point is almost always the wall anchor, not the bar, which is why matching the drill bit to the anchor matters.
Can you mount a towel bar without drilling?
Yes, if the product is designed for it. Adhesive towel bars and racks use strong double-sided tape or a sticky plate that bonds to tile or paint. They work best on clean, flat, non-porous surfaces and hold less weight than drilled mounts. For a bathroom that gets daily use, drilled anchors are the more reliable route.
References & Sources
- Moen. “Towel Bar Instruction Sheet INS10677A.” Details the template, 5/16 in. drill holes, and toggle anchor mounting process.
- Moen. “Towel Bar Instruction Sheet INS10468.” Covers 18 in. and 24 in. bars, double bars, with set screw and snug-tightening notes.
- Home Depot. “How to Install a Towel Bar.” Home improvement guide covering leveling, stud detection, and mounting steps.

