A sealed mattress bag that matches your mattress thickness is the fastest way to protect it during a move — slide it on, press out the air, tape the seam, and haul it upright.
The wrong cover turns a two-minute job into a ripped bag, a stained mattress, and a backache on moving day. Whether you’re dragging a queen down three flights or stuffing a full into a cargo van, the cover you pick and the way you seal it decide whether your mattress arrives clean or ruined. Here’s the exact order that works, plus the sizing rules most people get wrong.
Choose The Right Bag For Your Mattress Thickness
Buy a bag sized to your mattress’s actual depth, not just its width and length. U-Haul sells sealable mattress bags built for standard mattresses, pillow tops, and box springs up to 14 inches thick, while several of its non-sealable bags are listed for mattresses or box springs up to 10 inches thick. Under-size the bag and you’ll fight it the whole way onto the bed.
Sealable bags are the better pick for moves or storage because they keep out dust, soil, and light moisture. U-Haul’s category page notes some sealable versions also guard against bed bugs, which matters if your mattress will sit in a shared storage unit. Standard (non-sealable) bags still block dust and dirt but leave the ends open.
Products come in specific size variants: Twin/Full sealable, Queen/King sealable, individual Twin, Full, Queen, and King bags, plus bag sets with built-in handles. Those handle sets are made of heavy-grade polyethylene — listings run 2.0 mil to 2.25 mil depending on the product — and some king sets include three bags to cover a mattress plus two box springs.
Step-By-Step: Covering And Sealing The Mattress
Strip the bed completely, then let the mattress air-dry before it goes anywhere near a bag. A damp mattress sealed in plastic traps moisture and grows mildew fast — this is the single most common mistake.
- Measure twice. Note the mattress’s width, length, and depth, and measure your cargo space before you load anything.
- Stand the mattress on its side. A bag slides on far more easily with the mattress upright than lying flat.
- Slide the bag over one end and work it down, keeping the plastic smooth as you go. Don’t roll the mattress — U-Haul’s product notes say the bags aren’t designed for rolling and the mattress should stay free-standing inside.
- Press out the excess air from the open end so the plastic hugs the mattress.
- Seal the opening tightly with packing tape, folding the excess plastic over first. Run tape along every edge so nothing peels loose in transit.
- Label which side is up with a marker if you’re stacking, so the heavy end stays down on the next move.
Grab scissors and a roll of packing tape before you start — a half-sealed bag is nearly as bad as no bag. For box springs, buy a second bag: a full mattress and box spring need separate bags, since one won’t fit both.
How To Load And Carry A Covered Mattress
Load the mattress upright and standing on its long edge, then brace it so it can’t slide or bend. U-Haul’s loading tips recommend measuring both the mattress and the cargo area first, because fit and orientation depend on the vehicle — a Ram cargo van, for example, can allow upright loading where a shorter van can’t.
Lay the box spring flat on the floor first and stand the mattress against a wall or another steady load. Strap or wedge it in place so a hard stop doesn’t send it sliding forward. If you’re carrying it with help, use the built-in handles on handle-equipped bag sets to keep the load balanced and off your back.
When you reach storage, keep the mattress flat and free-standing — never folded or rolled — and leave the sealed bag on until the day you set the bed back up. If your current cover has seen better days, it’s worth comparing sturdier options before the next move; our roundup of the best bed moving covers breaks down thickness, sizing, and handle quality so you don’t guess.
The one thing worth doing before you buy: check the depth rating against your mattress. U-Haul’s mattress bags and covers should also be recycled once you’re done — they’re polyethylene plastic and the category page marks them as recyclable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I just use plastic wrap instead of a mattress bag?
Plastic wrap tears easily and leaves gaps that let in dust and moisture, so it offers weak protection for a move or long storage. A dedicated mattress bag — especially a sealable one — holds up far better against rips and stays put around awkward corners. Use wrap only to bundle the sealed bag’s taped end if needed.
Should I vacuum out the air before sealing?
You don’t need a vacuum; pressing the air out by hand is enough. Squeeze the open end flat, fold the excess plastic over, and tape it down. Removing most of the air keeps the bag snug so it won’t balloon or catch on doorways and van walls while you carry it.
How do I know my bag is too small?
If the bag won’t reach past both corners or you have to force it, it’s too small — forcing rips the seams. Check the depth rating before buying: sealable bags fit up to 14 inches thick, and many non-sealable bags stop at 10 inches. Size up rather than stretch a tight one.
References & Sources
- U-Haul. “Covers & Bags.” Sizing, thickness, sealable options, and recyclability for mattress bags.
- U-Haul. “How To Load A Queen Sized Mattress Into A U-Haul Cargo Van.” Sealing steps, excess-air removal, and measuring cargo space before loading.
