Can A Stove Go Under A Window? | Safe Setup Guide

Yes, a range can go beneath a window only when the window is fixed, combustibles are kept clear, and code-compliant ventilation is in place.

Design photos love a sunny cooking zone. Real kitchens answer to heat, grease, glass, and safety rules. The short story: placing a cooktop beneath glazing can pass inspection and work day-to-day, but only with strict guardrails. This guide lays out the rules that matter, the risks that trip projects, and the build details that make a window-front range safe to own and simple to clean.

What The Rules And Manuals Actually Require

Residential codes don’t flat-ban a cooktop in front of glazing. They do set minimum clearances to combustibles above the cooking surface, and they govern exhaust performance. Appliance makers also warn against anything that can blow or drape over burners. Read those three threads together and you get a workable path: fixed glass, no fabric near flame, and a hood that moves air the right way.

RequirementTypical MinimumWhat It Means On Site
Clearance Above Cooking Surface to Unprotected Combustibles30 in. (762 mm)Keep wood trim, shelves, and low cabinets out of this zone unless listed protection reduces it.
Makeup Air For High-CFM HoodsRequired when the hood exceeds 400 CFMProvide an automatic damper or balanced system so the hood doesn’t starve the room or backdraft other appliances.
Window Treatments Near BurnersNo curtains or loose coveringsUse bare glass or tight, noncombustible treatments outside the splash zone; nothing that can waft over flame.

The 30-inch vertical clearance sets the envelope above the cooking plane. Where a hood is installed, follow the listed spacing for that model as long as it keeps combustibles out of harm’s way. For air, any hood that actually captures steam and smoke will move past the 400 CFM line in many homes, which triggers a dedicated makeup air solution. Most manufacturer manuals add a plain warning on drapes and blinds near burners. Pair those three facts and the shape of a safe install becomes clear.

Putting A Range Under A Window — When It’s Allowed

Many inspectors approve this layout when the plan meets clear, testable criteria. Here’s what typically passes:

  • Fixed sash over the cooktop. No openable window directly behind the burners. A fixed pane prevents gusts that can push flame or pull smoke away from the hood.
  • Noncombustible surround. Use tile, metal, or stone for the lower jamb, sill, and adjacent wall zones. Skip wood stools, trim returns, and deep sills that sit in the 30-inch zone.
  • A hood that actually captures. Choose a canopy that projects at least half the depth of the front burners, with ducting to the exterior. Match CFM to your cook style and add makeup air when required.
  • No fabric near heat. Keep curtains, roman shades, and paper blinds away from the cooking line and the hood inlet.
  • Listing clearances obeyed. Follow the appliance and hood installation instructions for side, rear, and overhead spacing.

Risks You Must Solve Before You Build

A window behind an open flame adds failure modes that don’t exist with a solid wall. Each has a direct fix:

Grease On Glass

Oil aerosol and boil-overs spot glazing fast. Smooth tile and a full-height tempered backer panel make cleanup easier. A deep canopy reduces what hits the pane in the first place.

Flame And Draft Interaction

Openable sash or a leaky frame can deflect flame, chill pans, or pull smoke out of the hood’s capture zone. A fixed pane and tight weather-seal keep the plume predictable so the hood can do its job.

Combustible Soft Goods

Anything that hangs or swings near burners can ignite. The safe answer is no fabric in the cooking lane. If glare control is a must, use exterior shading or a rigid, fire-rated screen outside the hazard zone.

Hood Performance And Makeup Air

A powerful hood without makeup air can depressurize a tight house. That can stall the hood, pull smoke into rooms, or backdraft a water heater. A dedicated, automatic makeup air damper keeps pressures balanced and the hood effective.

Layout Rules That Keep Inspectors Happy

Plan the section like a detail drawing, not a mood board. These field-tested specs keep projects moving:

  • Target 30–36 inches from cooking surface to hood baffle. Stay within the hood’s manual. Lower improves capture; higher needs more CFM and a wider canopy.
  • Project the hood at least 3 inches past the rear burners. A deeper canopy over glazing improves capture at the glass line.
  • Set the sill below the burner deck or push it well above the 30-inch plane. Many builders drop the sill a few inches below the cooktop and clad it in tile or stainless to simplify cleanup.
  • Use a full-height, noncombustible jamb return. Tile or metal on the sides prevents grease streaks on painted wood.
  • Keep 1–2 feet of clear counter to one side. Hot-pan landing space reduces spill risk when steam or glare hits.
  • Add a ledge-depth guard in front of the glazing. A small stainless angle or flush rail at the back edge of the counter helps catch bubbles and splashes before they kiss the glass.

Range Type Matters Near Glass

Gas Burners

Open flame demands strict discipline on fabrics and drafts. A fixed pane, a tight frame, and real hood capture are non-negotiable. Side clearances and overhead spacing from the manual still apply.

Electric Coil And Smoothtop

No flame, but the same rules on clearance, grease, and capture. Radiant and induction tops benefit from deeper canopies and back-edge lips to limit splatter on glass.

Induction

Induction cuts waste heat and tames plume rise, which can help keep the glass cleaner. You still need a hood that actually captures steam and odors, and the same no-fabric rule applies.

Ventilation Details That Make Or Break This Layout

Glazing behind the cooktop shrinks the zone where the hood can trap a rising plume. Design the exhaust like a system, not a part:

  1. Choose canopy over downdraft. A wall or island canopy works with physics. Downdrafts fight it and lose more often than not.
  2. Size for capture, not just CFM. A 30-inch top with high-heat cooking needs a canopy at least the same width and preferably deeper than the rear burners.
  3. Use smooth, short duct runs. Big radius turns, rigid duct, and a tight exterior cap keep the noise down and the capture up.
  4. Add makeup air when required. Tie the damper to the hood so it opens when the fan runs. Balance keeps smoke at the hood and out of the room.

Code-Shaped Mistakes That Stall Permits

Certain choices trigger instant pushback. Skip these and your plan reads clean:

  • Openable sash behind an open flame.
  • Any curtain, shade, or blind near the burners or the hood’s intake.
  • Combustible trim within the 30-inch overhead zone with no listed protection.
  • A hood over 400 CFM with no makeup air strategy.
  • Recirculating “filter-only” units where the cook style needs capture and venting outdoors.

Window-Front Range: Cost And Maintenance Reality

There’s a tradeoff for the view. Expect weekly glass care and a little more diligence on splatter control. A removable stainless back rail helps. So does a low-profile ledge across the back of the countertop. Plan a washable, full-height panel at the jambs, and seal every edge so water can’t creep behind tile or metal. Keep a razor scraper and non-abrasive cleaner handy for caramelized specks.

Safety Checklist Before You Order Cabinets

RiskWhat It MeansMitigation
Draft At FlameOpenable sash or leaky frame disturbs burners and hood capture.Use fixed glazing, seal the frame, and verify hood capture at the rear burners.
Ignition Of Soft GoodsFabric moves into the burner zone or hood inlet.No curtains or paper blinds; use bare glass or rigid, noncombustible shades outside the hazard zone.
Grease On GlassHot oil bonds to glazing and jambs.Deep canopy, rear ledge guard, and cleanable, noncombustible finishes.
Negative PressureHood can’t capture; other appliances backdraft.Makeup air tied to hood controls; short, smooth duct and an efficient cap.
Combustible OverheadWood shelves or low cabinets in the clearance zone.Respect the 30-inch rule or use listed protection per instructions.

Spec Sheet You Can Hand To Your Installer

  • Glazing: Fixed pane directly behind the cooktop; tempered glass recommended for durability and cleaning.
  • Finishes: Tile or stainless at sill and jambs; silicone-sealed edges; no exposed wood near the back edge of the burners.
  • Hood: Canopy equal to or wider than the range; deeper than rear burners; ducted outside; lined up with the back burners.
  • Air: Makeup air sized to hood when required; automatic damper linked to fan.
  • Treatments: None within reach of the burners or the hood intake; exterior shading only if glare demands it.
  • Clearance: Maintain the listed overhead spacing and side setbacks; keep the 30-inch zone free of unprotected combustibles.
  • Anchoring: Install the anti-tip device per the range manual before final placement.

Where To Get The Exact Numbers

Two sources carry weight in any permit office: the model residential code for exhaust and the specific appliance manual for safety notes and clearances. You can read the makeup-air rule straight from the model code, and you can see a major maker’s caution against curtains and open windows near burners. Link both to your plan set and you save a round of comments.

Helpful references you can show your contractor: the model makeup-air rule in the residential mechanical section and a major brand’s safety note on windows and drapes near burners. Link them directly in your scope or drawings so everyone builds to the same page.

Bottom Line For A Window-Front Cooking Zone

Sunlight at the cook line is doable. The safe recipe is simple: a fixed pane, a noncombustible surround, real capture at the hood, and no fabric within reach of heat. Build to those points and the setup cooks well, cleans fast, and passes inspection without drama.

Read the model makeup-air requirement in the residential mechanical code, and see a major maker’s window and curtain warning in GE’s range guidance. For overhead spacing to combustibles, see the 30-inch rule in the appliance section.