No, a propane-only stove can’t run on natural gas without a certified conversion kit, correct orifices, and regulator adjustments.
A gas range built for bottled fuel and a home supply line that carries utility gas don’t match out of the box. The fuels burn differently, the working pressure at the burners isn’t the same, and the parts that meter fuel into each flame port are sized for one gas or the other. Running a propane-only appliance on utility gas without a proper conversion risks weak flames, soot, carbon monoxide, and damage. The good news: many ranges can be converted safely with the right parts and a qualified tech.
Why A Direct Swap Fails
Utility gas is delivered at a lower appliance manifold pressure than bottled fuel. Burner orifices on a propane-only range are smaller because that fuel carries more energy per unit volume and arrives to the regulator at a higher working pressure. If you hook that same cooker to a utility line without changes, the orifices choke flow and the regulator is set for the wrong outlet pressure. The flame turns lazy or lifts off, heat output tanks, and combustion goes off-spec.
Fuel Differences At A Glance
The quick comparison below shows why the hardware must match the fuel.
| Category | Propane (LP) | Natural Gas (NG) |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Appliance Manifold Pressure | ~10–11" water column | ~3.5" water column |
| Orifice Sizing Logic | Smaller orifices (higher energy/pressure) | Larger orifices (lower pressure) |
| Common Regulator Cap Setting | LP position | NAT position |
| Heat Content Reference | ~91,452 Btu per gallon (liquid) | ~1,036 Btu per cubic foot (gas) |
| Supply Source | Cylinder or tank | Utility service line |
| Combustion Tuning | Air shutters set for LP | Air shutters retuned for NG |
| Labeling | Marked for LP | Must be relabeled after conversion |
Using A Propane-Only Range With City Gas — What Changes?
To run a propane-configured cooker on utility gas, you need three aligned pieces: the correct orifices at each burner, the regulator set to the NAT position (or an NG-specific regulator), and a verified manifold pressure at the appliance. Many brands ship with a conversion kit or offer one by model number. The kit includes a regulator cap or spring setting and a set of spuds sized for each burner rating.
What A Proper Conversion Involves
1) Confirm Model Support
Check the installation instructions for your exact model. Most mainstream ranges list the steps for single-fuel setup at the factory and the matching steps for the other gas. If a manual says “do not operate before conversion,” take it literally.
2) Swap Orifices By Burner Rating
Each top burner, the oven bake burner, and sometimes the broil burner have a listed Btu rating. The conversion kit maps those ratings to specific orifice sizes for each gas. A pro removes the LP spuds and installs the NG versions sized for those ratings. The bake spud often carries a stamped number (two digits) that identifies the size; the NG version will be larger.
3) Set The Regulator To NAT
Most ranges have a combination regulator with a removable cap. The cap or internal spring carrier has two positions: one for bottled fuel and one for utility gas. The installer flips or re-seats that part so “NAT” is selected, then reinstalls the cap to lock in the correct outlet pressure.
4) Adjust Air And Verify Pressure
After orifices and regulator are set, the tech checks flame shape and color, tunes air shutters if present, and measures the manifold pressure with a manometer at a test port to confirm ~3.5" water column under load.
5) Leak Check, Labeling, And Final Test
Connections get a leak solution test. The range should be labeled as set for utility gas, and a full function test—top burners, oven, and broiler—confirms stable flame and ignition.
For code scope and safety language that covers gas piping and appliances, see NFPA 54 fuel gas code. For a clear picture of how a mainstream brand maps burner ratings to LP and NG orifices and regulator positions, review Whirlpool conversion instructions.
Risks When The Fuel And Hardware Don’t Match
- Poor Combustion: Yellow tips, soot, and odor from a starved flame.
- CO Hazard: Off-ratio flames can produce carbon monoxide.
- Ignition Issues: Burners that pop, lift, or go out easily.
- Cook Time Drift: Heat output drops far below the burner’s rating.
- Warranty Trouble: Manufacturers treat mis-fuel use as misuse.
- Insurance Risk: A claim can stall if an unapproved setup is found.
Parts, Specs, And Who Should Do The Work
A typical conversion uses model-specific orifices, a regulator cap setting, and sometimes a different regulator spring. Many kits include a placard to stick near the gas inlet, noting the new fuel. Brands expect a licensed installer to perform the work and to verify final pressure with a gauge.
| Component | LP Configuration | NG Configuration |
|---|---|---|
| Regulator Setting | LP position | NAT position (~3.5" WC outlet) |
| Top Burner Orifices | Smaller spuds (by Btu rating) | Larger spuds (by Btu rating) |
| Bake/Broil Orifices | LP-matched sizes | NG-matched sizes |
| Air Shutters | Tuned for LP | Retuned for NG |
| Labeling | Marked LP | Change label to NG |
| Pressure Check | ~10–11" WC manifold | ~3.5" WC manifold |
How To Tell If Your Range Is Already Convertible
Look for a bag of spare spuds taped to the rear panel, a note in the installation booklet about dual-fuel setup, and a regulator cap embossed with “LP” and “NAT.” Many freestanding ranges ship set for utility gas at the factory and include an LP kit; others ship set for bottled fuel and need an NG kit. If you do not see orifices or a cap with two positions, the model may be single-fuel only.
Realistic Costs And Time
Parts are usually modest in price for mainstream models. Labor varies by access and local licensing. A single visit covers removal of grates and caps, orifice swaps, regulator set, leak test, and tuning. If the home supply uses a 2-psi line, a line regulator upstream of the appliance may be part of the plan. Your utility can point you to qualified contractors, and many utilities will perform a safety check after work is complete.
DIY Versus Pro Work
Swapping spuds and flipping a cap looks simple. The catch is verification. You need a manometer to confirm the outlet pressure and a trained eye to read flame quality. Codes call for work by a qualified person, and brand manuals say the same. A pro also carries leak detection fluid and knows how to set the broil and bake burners without warping parts.
Safety Checklist Before First Burn
- Shutoff valve open; all joints leak-tested with approved solution.
- Regulator set to NAT; cap seated fully; no hiss at the cap.
- Correct orifices installed at each burner based on listed Btu.
- Manifold pressure confirmed near 3.5" WC with at least one burner on high.
- Flame mostly blue with stable cone; no lifting or roll-out.
- Appliance labeled for utility gas near the supply connection.
- Room ventilation adequate; CO alarm present and tested.
Common Missteps To Avoid
- Mixing spuds between burners with different ratings.
- Leaving the regulator in the LP position after hooking to a utility line.
- Skipping the pressure test and “tuning by eye” only.
- Reusing thread tape that is not rated for fuel gas on iron pipe joints.
- Forgetting to convert the oven section while changing only the top.
Clear Answer And Next Steps
A propane-configured stove does not run safely on utility gas as-is. Many models can be set up for the other fuel with the right kit, parts, and a qualified installer. Confirm your exact model’s instructions, schedule a conversion, and ask for a final pressure reading and leak test documented on the work order. That way you get full heat, clean flames, and peace of mind.