Framing a 16×20 picture requires either a 16×20 frame for a matless full-bleed display or a larger frame if you want a mat border around the artwork, depending on your intended look.
The first decision when framing a 16×20 print is whether you want the image to go edge-to-edge inside the frame or whether you want a mat border around it. That single choice determines what size frame you buy and how much labor the project takes. Here is the quick sizing logic on both routes and the step sequence that gets the job done without wasted materials.
The Two Sizing Routes for 16×20 Artwork
Measure the artwork’s exact width and height before you buy anything — that measurement, not the frame’s stated size, is your starting point. If the 16×20 print is meant to be shown without a mat, you simply use a frame with a 16×20 opening and mount the print directly behind the glazing and backing. This is the no-mat, full-bleed approach and is the faster option. If you want a mat border, the outer frame must pick the right 16×20 picture frame that is larger than 16×20 to accommodate the mat’s visible border and the overlap that holds the artwork in place. Decide how much mat you want to show — one, two, or three inches on each side — then add that amount to the artwork dimensions to get the frame’s opening size. A common setup for a 16×20 print with a 2-inch mat requires an outer frame with a roughly 20×24 opening.
Art that will be preserved for years demands acid-free mounting materials; standard mat board can yellow and damage the print over time, so spring for archival-grade board and tape when the piece matters.
DIY Framing: The Assembly Sequence
Building a frame from scratch or assembling a ready-made kit follows the same disciplined order. Cut the frame parts to size first, making sure the corners are square — a misaligned corner pulls the whole frame crooked and is hard to undo. Clamps and a carpenter’s square prevent this mistake on the first try.
Once the frame is assembled, cut the mat board. The mat’s inner opening must match the artwork size exactly (16×20 for a full-bleed mat window) and its outer dimensions must match the frame’s inner dimensions. Use a sharp utility knife and a straight edge; a dull blade frays the bevel. After the mat is ready, place the artwork face-up on a clean, dry surface and mount it to the foam core or backing board using acid-free tape or artist’s tape at the top edge only — taping all four edges allows the print to buckle as humidity changes. Add the glazing (glass or acrylic) atop the artwork, then the backing board, and secure the package with frame clips, glazier points, or the frame’s included backing hardware depending on the frame style.
Mounting and Hanging Hardware
The hardware you use depends on the frame’s weight and size. Sawtooth hangers are fine for lightweight frames up to about 8×10; a 16×20 frame with glass is heavy enough that a wire between two D-rings is the safer choice. The wire should be taut and sit about one-third of the way down from the top of the frame. Install the hardware before closing the back — it is much harder to attach afterward — and align the hanger or wire position for the intended orientation, landscape or portrait, so the picture hangs straight on the first attempt. For drywall, use a wall anchor or screw rated for the frame’s weight; a picture hook alone can pull free under the load of a framed 16×20 print.
Common Mistakes That Waste Time and Material
A few errors crop up repeatedly in DIY framing. Measuring only the frame and not the artwork first costs you a return trip to the store. Cutting the mat before settling on the final visible border size forces a do-over if the border looks too wide or too narrow in place. Using screws or hardware longer than the wood depth can poke through the front of the frame, ruining the face of the piece. And skipping a square or clamps leaves corners out of alignment — once the glue dries, that gap is permanent. Head each one off by measuring twice, cutting once, and checking square before the glue sets.
FAQs
Do I need a mat to frame a 16×20 picture correctly?
No. A mat is optional. If you like the look of the print extending edge-to-edge inside the frame, use a 16×20 frame with no mat and mount the artwork directly. A mat adds a professional gallery look and prevents the print from touching the glass, which can stick over time in humid conditions.
What is the best way to mount a 16×20 print for archival safety?
Use acid-free foam core or mat board as the backing, and attach the print at the top edge only with acid-free artist’s tape. This allows the paper to expand and contract with humidity without wrinkling. Never use standard white glue, rubber cement, or self-adhesive photo corners that may contain acid.
How do I keep the corners square when building a frame from scratch?
Clamp two adjoining frame pieces together with a corner clamp or right-angle jig before joining them. Check square with a carpenter’s square after each joint. A frame with corners off by even a few degrees will not sit flat against the wall and will leave visible gaps at the joints.
References & Sources
- The Home Depot. “How to Make a DIY Picture Frame.” Step-by-step instructions for cutting, assembling, and finishing custom picture frames.
