No, integrated fridge sizes vary by height, width, depth, and hinge system.
Planning a new kitchen or swapping a built-in unit brings a clear fit question. Built-in refrigeration follows common modules so most models slide into standard housings, but the details matter. Heights range from compact under-counter units to tall 177-cm cavities, widths and depths have tight tolerances, and doors attach in two different ways.
Integrated Fridge Sizes: What Varies And Why
Manufacturers design built-ins around kitchen furniture modules. In many markets the cabinet grid uses a 600-mm frame, which is why most built-in fridges sit behind a 60-cm front. Even with that shared footprint, models differ across three axes: cavity height, internal appliance width, and required ventilation space. Split layouts for fridge-freezers add another layer, as door proportions must match the kitchen fronts.
Main Size Families You’ll Meet
Below is a quick map of common formats you’ll see on product pages and installation sheets. Treat the figures as the cavity the kitchen must provide, not the box you measure on the appliance’s label. Check the brand’s sheet for the exact niche and air gaps.
| Type | Typical Niche (H × W × D) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Under-counter larder | 820–870 × 600 × 550 mm | Fits a 60-cm base; plinth grille and vent slots needed. |
| Built-in 88-cm | 880 × 560 × 550 mm | Often a small fridge with icebox or a compact freezer. |
| Mid-height 122–140-cm | 1225/1400 × 560 × 550 mm | Good for tall-door singles or 60/40 splits. |
| Tall 177-cm column | 1775 × 560 × 550 mm | Common for full-height larder or 70/30 and 50/50 splits. |
Width And Depth Tolerances
Most integrated models expect an internal cabinet width near 560 mm and a minimum cavity depth near 550 mm. Those figures appear again and again in brand spec sheets because they let a 60-cm door sit flush while leaving a slim air channel behind the unit. A shallow cabinet can raise power draw; a tight fit can choke airflow and add noise.
Height Choices Drive The Look
Tall 177-cm housings create a clean run of doors. Mid-height units pair with ovens above or drawers below. Compact 88-cm and under-counter formats suit small flats or second fridges near prep space.
Door Systems, Splits, And Panel Alignment
Size is only half the story. Door mechanics decide whether your kitchen fronts sit true. Built-ins use either a fixed-door (also called “door-on-door”) system where the furniture panel bolts to the appliance door, or a sliding-door system where the panel hangs on the cabinet and rides on sliders that couple to the appliance door. Hinges, weights, and maximum panel sizes differ between the two approaches, so check the installation sheet before ordering panels.
Fridge-Freezer Splits
Cabinet makers often plan a 70/30, 60/40, or 50/50 split to match food habits. If you’re swapping like-for-like, match the split so the mid-rail lines stay hidden and your fronts meet neatly. If you switch splits, you’ll need new door fronts or a cabinet tweak.
How To Measure Your Space With Confidence
Grab a steel tape and work through the cavity, not the old appliance. Measure height, then width, then depth. Look for bump-outs, pipes, or sockets that steal depth. Many plinths pop off so you can check the base and vents.
Step-By-Step Checks
- Measure inside the cabinet from floor to underside of the top panel. Write down the tightest point.
- Measure internal width at bottom, middle, and top. Use the smallest figure.
- Measure depth from the back panel to the inside of the door frame. Subtract any cable trunking.
- Note the hinge side, the opening direction you want, and the distance to adjacent walls so doors can swing.
- Confirm ventilation paths: an intake slot in the plinth and a warm-air outlet behind or above the unit.
Ventilation Rules Worth Following
Many brands ask for clear intake and outlet areas around 200 cm², with an open path up the back panel or through a grille above the unit. Skip the airflow and you risk higher temps, more noise, and premature wear.
Real-World Numbers From Installation Sheets
Brand documents repeat similar figures. A common tall cavity is 1775 × 560 × 550 mm for a full-height model; compact 88-cm units ask for an 880 × 560 × 550 mm niche; under-counter fridges sit in an 820–870 × 600 × 550 mm space with adjustable legs and a plinth opening. You’ll also see notes about keeping a gap for an air channel and placing the socket outside the niche so the plug stays accessible.
To see this in print, check a Siemens sheet that lists a 177.5 cm high, 56 cm wide, 55 cm deep niche for a full-height built-in (niche 1775 × 560 × 550 mm), and the European furniture standard that coordinates cabinet modules across brands (BS EN 1116 coordinating sizes).
Installation Pitfalls That Break The Fit
Even when the numbers look right, little misses can derail the job. Here are the usual suspects and how to dodge them.
Common Mistakes
- Ignoring the split. Switching a 70/30 cabinet to a 50/50 appliance misplaces rails and handles.
- Skipping the plinth grille. Blocking the intake starves the compressor.
- Mounting the panel on the wrong system. Sliding-door hardware won’t match a fixed-door hinge set.
- Assuming the cabinet is square. Out-of-level floors can steal height at the back.
- Forgetting handle clearance. A wall or tall unit beside the hinge side can jam the door.
When Wider Or Narrower Models Make Sense
Most built-ins target that 56-cm internal width, but a few brands offer slightly wider or narrower bodies to suit bespoke furniture or older kitchens. If you’re locked to an odd cavity, check specialist ranges before tearing out cabinets.
Buying Checklist Before You Click “Add To Cart”
Use this list to match an appliance to your kitchen with fewer surprises on delivery day.
- Match cavity height. 88-cm, 122-cm, 140-cm, and 177-cm are the common rungs.
- Check internal width and minimum depth. Look for ~560 mm wide and ~550 mm deep cavity notes.
- Pick the door system. Fixed-door for the cleanest look; sliding if your cabinet is built for it.
- Confirm split layout. Keep the same 50/50, 60/40, or 70/30 so your fronts align.
- Plan ventilation. Plinth intake and a warm-air outlet path at the rear or above.
- Locate electrics. A socket outside the niche keeps the plug reachable.
- Weigh the panel. Stay within the brand’s stated max door-panel weight.
Cabinet Systems And Why They Matter
Kitchen systems such as METOD use tall housings in 200, 220, and 240-cm heights with a 60-cm module. That grid drives door lengths and where rails land, which in turn dictates which appliance heights fit cleanly without filler strips. If your kitchen uses a different system, check the maker’s planning page and match the appliance height so the fronts line up across the run.
Replacing A Model In An Existing Tall Housing
If you already have a tall cavity with fronts that meet nicely, measure the niche and seek a new unit that calls for the same cavity. That keeps drilling to a minimum and speeds the swap to a single visit. Changing split types, hinge side, or door system will add carpentry time.
Quick Reference: Typical Niche Sizes And Use Cases
Save or print this table when you’re planning. It groups common cavity sizes with where they shine.
| Niche Size (H × W × D) | Where It Fits Best | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 820–870 × 600 × 550 mm | Under-counter bays | Adjustable legs; check plinth height and grille. |
| 880 × 560 × 550 mm | Compact larder or freezer | Often with sliding-door kits. |
| 1225 × 560 × 550 mm | Mid-height single | Pairs with oven above or drawers below. |
| 1400 × 560 × 550 mm | Tall single fridge | Good for smaller kitchens needing more fresh space. |
| 1775 × 560 × 550 mm | Full-height larder or split | Most common tall cavity across brands. |
Worked Example: From Measurement To Model Pick
Say your tape reads 1777 mm high at the front, 1773 mm at the back, 562 mm wide, and 560 mm deep to a socket cut-out. That points to a tall model calling for a 1775 × 560 × 550 mm niche. You’d choose a unit that tolerates a slightly deeper cabinet, plan a plinth grille, and place the socket in the adjacent unit so the plug is reachable. If a 70/30 split is in place, you’d stick with it to keep the fronts aligned.
Care And Set-Up For A Long-Running Install
Once fitted, level the feet, check the panel opens beyond 90°, and run the appliance for several hours before loading food. Keep the plinth grille clear and vacuum the base channel a few times a year. over time and reliability too.
Bottom Line
Built-in refrigeration follows shared cabinet modules, yet sizes aren’t identical. Pick by the niche you have, the split you want, and the door system your kitchen allows. Measure carefully, respect the ventilation path, and read the installation sheet for the exact cavity. Do that and the new unit will sit flush, run quietly, and look like it was designed with your kitchen from the start.