No, built-in fridge-freezer models differ in height, width, depth, and hinges—measure your cabinet niche and ventilation space.
Shopping for a panel-ready fridge-freezer can be confusing. Some units look alike, yet their fittings and cut-outs are not identical. This guide clears the fog with plain measurements, cabinet terms, and a step-by-step fit check so you buy once and install smoothly.
Integrated Fridge Freezer Sizes—What Varies And Why
Built-in cooling comes in two broad families: tall “in-column” units that fill a tower cabinet, and built-under models that slide beneath a worktop. Within these groups, brands publish small but critical differences in cabinet cut-out size, door fixings, and ventilation needs. That’s why one 177 cm unit may swap easily with another, while a third needs a taller niche or a different hinge kit.
Dimensions appear in two sets: overall appliance size and the required niche. The niche figure rules the fit. A common tall niche sits around 1770–1780 mm high, about 560 mm wide, and near 550 mm deep. Under-counter units cluster near 820–870 mm high and 595–600 mm wide. Depth lands near 545–560 mm to sit flush with a standard cabinet run.
Common Built-In Niche Ranges
| Type | Typical Niche (H × W × D) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tall / In-Column | 1770–1780 mm × 560 mm × 550 mm | Most 50/50 or 60/40 splits; small brand-to-brand shifts. |
| Built-Under | 820–870 mm × 595–600 mm × 545–560 mm | Height set by plinth and levelling feet; watch venting path. |
| Compact Column | 1220–1580 mm × 560 mm × 550 mm | Less common; measure door alignment to adjacent fronts. |
Door Fixing Systems: Sliding Versus Door-On-Door
Integrated models use one of two door systems. A sliding kit links the cabinet door to the appliance door with runners so the two move together but remain separate pieces. A door-on-door setup fastens the furniture door directly to the appliance door with brackets, creating a single, stiffer assembly.
Both methods can look seamless from the front. The difference matters for replacement. If your cabinet was built for sliding, a new unit that expects a direct mount can misalign or bind unless you convert the fittings. Check your current hinge plates and rails before ordering.
Depth, Plinths, And Ventilation Gaps
Flush lines depend on depth and airflow. Most columns expect a 550 mm deep recess, leaving a small service gap behind. Many brands call for a ventilation opening in the plinth and a grille at the top of the tower or a ducted channel. Skipping these openings forces the compressor to run hotter and can shorten lifespan.
Under-counter units draw air through the plinth, exhaust at the rear, and sit behind a decor door. The plinth height, usually 100–150 mm, affects the usable appliance height and the level of the hinge relative to adjacent fronts. Measure the plinth and the underside of the worktop, not just the floor-to-counter number.
When in doubt, check the product’s installation ventilation guidance for minimum vent areas and grill positions. A small mismatch here is a big source of poor cooling and noise complaints.
Measured Examples From Major Brands
To show the spread, here are live examples pulled from current spec pages. A Bosch tall model lists a carcass near 1772 × 541 × 548 mm and calls for a niche around 1775 × 562 × 550 mm. A Smeg column shows a 1772 × 548 × 549 mm chassis with a 1780 × 560 × 550 mm niche. AEG quotes similar headline heights, with small width and depth tweaks between appliance shell and cabinet opening.
The takeaway: numbers cluster, but they aren’t identical. A 2–4 mm change in width or depth can decide whether the unit slides in cleanly or rubs a side panel.
Regional Modules And Cabinet Conventions
Most European kitchens run on a 600 mm cabinet grid. That’s why many integrated columns target a 560 mm opening and a 595–600 mm fascia. The grid keeps door lines even across ovens and larders.
Brands also tune depth for airflow. A case listed at ~550 mm deep may still want a 550 mm recess plus a small space behind for the plug. That last 10–15 mm often decides a tidy, quiet install.
Common Pitfalls To Avoid
Do not assume any 177 cm model will drop into a tower cabinet that already holds a column. Hinge geometry can shift the door line and show a step against nearby fronts. Skipping the plinth grille makes the unit run hot and loud. Removing the factory spacer can push the coil too close to the wall.
Retail listings may round figures or quote shell size without the true, exact cut-out. Always click through to the brand installation PDF and follow that document.
Step-By-Step Fit Check Before You Buy
Grab a metal tape and take ten minutes in the kitchen. These checks prevent order-day surprises.
Confirm The Niche
Measure the inside height of the tower or the space under the counter. Note the smallest height, width, and depth clearances, not the largest. Subtract a few millimetres for squareness and a cable bend radius.
Identify The Door System
Open the door and look at the link to the furniture panel. Rails that glide separately signal a sliding kit. Direct brackets that bolt through the decor door point to a door-on-door build.
Map The Ventilation Path
Find the intake and exhaust. In towers, look for a plinth grille and a channel up the back or a top outlet. Under-counter units need a clear lower grille and a rear exit. If the plinth is blocked, plan a cut-out or a vented piece.
Check Split Ratio And Hinge Side
Decide on 50/50, 60/40, or 70/30 storage and confirm the hinge side matches your kitchen swing. Some kits allow reversal, but the handle side must clear walls and tall units.
Confirm Electrical And Service Space
Locate the socket and make sure the plug can sit in the rear void without pressing the case. Leave room to level the feet and to remove the unit later.
When A Replacement Drops Straight In
A like-for-like swap inside the same brand family often fits well, especially when the hinge system and split ratio match. Many 177 cm columns share the same envelope, and built-under units tend to settle near a 596 mm fascia width. Even then, read the fine print on hinge type, required niche, and vent areas.
Mixing brands is fine when the niche and door system line up. Cross-checking the installation drawings is the quickest way to spot trouble before the delivery truck arrives.
Sizing Myths That Trip Up Buyers
Myth one says every tall column shares the same cut-out. In practice, heights bounce between 1770 and 1780 mm and width tolerance changes with the hinge system. That tiny spread is enough to trip a tight cabinet. These myths waste install time.
Myth two says depth does not matter because the unit is inside a box. Depth sets the rear void, and the rear void sets how well warm air escapes. Tight space at the back adds noise and shortens component life.
Myth three says any door kit will do. Sliding and direct-mount parts look similar in photos yet behave differently under load. Swapping styles without the right kit leads to rubbing, noisy motion, and stressed hinges.
Model-By-Model Fit Notes
Specs from shop pages help you shortlist, but always open the installation PDF before you buy. That document shows the exact cut-out, the hinge throw, and the vent path. If the sheet calls for a top grille, add it. If it shows a spacer behind the case, leave it in; it keeps the coil clear of the wall and sets the designed airflow.
Noise, ice build-up, and weak chilling often trace back to tight installs or blocked vents rather than a bad compressor. Getting the fit right on day one saves service calls.
Quick Sizing Chart You Can Save
| Measure | Target Range | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Tall Niche Height | 1770–1780 mm | Match to spec sheet and plinth height. |
| Niche Width | 560 mm | Leaves side clearances for seals/runners. |
| Niche Depth | 550 mm | Allows rear void for plug and airflow. |
| Built-Under Height | 820–870 mm | Set by feet and worktop thickness. |
| Fascia Width | 595–600 mm | Aligns with 600 mm cabinet run. |
How To Read Spec Pages Fast
Open the “dimensions” or “installation” tab. Pull three numbers first: niche height, niche width, and niche depth. Next, look for a diagram of the ventilation path. Lastly, check the door fixing line showing sliding rails or direct brackets. If a retailer repeats the headline numbers but the brand PDF shows different figures, follow the brand PDF.
Save screenshots or print the diagram and walk to the cabinet with a tape. Mark the grille positions and the top outlet. If anything clashes with a shelf or a cross-rail, adjust the cabinet before delivery.
When To Call A Fitter
If the opening is out-of-square by more than a few millimetres, the case can twist and the doors may bind. A joiner can plane a stile, shim a runner, or add a vented plinth. An electrician can relocate a socket so the plug sits in the rear void rather than behind the case.
Pro time is well spent during remodels with stacked ovens, larders, and narrow fillers, where every millimetre is allocated on the plan.
Bottom Line For Shoppers
Units across brands cluster near common cabinet modules, but they are not identical. Treat the niche diagram as the truth, match the door system, and keep the airflow path open. With those three checks, your replacement glides in and runs quietly.