Propane runs on a portable tank, while natural gas requires a fixed line, and sear burners add a separate high-heat zone for browning rather than replacing your main cooking capacity.
Choosing between propane and natural gas comes down to one question first: what does your home already support? Propane is tank-based and portable, so you can move the grill and refill a 20 lb. cylinder anywhere. Natural gas needs a permanent line and a quick-connect socket, which locks the grill in place but means you never run out mid-cook. A sear burner sits on top of that decision as an optional feature, not a replacement for it. Buying by burner count alone is the fastest way to end up with a six-burner grill that heats unevenly or cannot hook up at all.
Fuel Type Comes Before Burner Count
The fuel decision outranks every other spec because it is the hardest thing to change later. Weber’s US Spirit E-325 page lists the fuel type as Liquid Propane and ships without a tank, sold separately as a 20 lb. cylinder. If you want natural gas, either buy an NG-compatible model or plan on a conversion kit — never assume a propane grill is automatically compatible.
A grill labeled “convertible” is not plug-and-play. Conversion typically requires replacing the LP orifices with NG orifices, swapping the regulator and hose assembly, and leak-testing every connection. One conversion manual goes further and requires adjusting the High Flame Set Screw clockwise roughly 90 degrees after switching from propane to natural gas. That is a real step many buyers miss, and skipping it leaves the flame running wrong.
Fuel listings are also region-specific. Weber’s GENESIS E-435 page appearing in search results is a Japan page listing LPG, so its specs do not map cleanly onto a US configuration. Always read the listing for the version you are actually buying.
What A Sear Burner Actually Does
A sear burner is a dedicated high-heat zone built into the grill, usually advertised as an infrared side burner or sear zone, separate from the main burner set. It exists for one job: intense direct heat that browns meat fast and lays down sear marks. It is not a low-and-slow tool and does not add usable cooking area to the main grate.
Weber’s current sear-zone examples show the feature marketed as its own zone rather than as added total capacity. A sear burner is useful for steaks and quick browning, but it does not excuse you from checking total burner output, grate size, and fuel compatibility on the grill itself. Those three specs decide how the grill performs day to day; the sear burner is a bonus on top of them.
| What To Check | Why It Matters | Common Trap |
|---|---|---|
| Fuel type listed | Determines tank vs. fixed line | Assuming propane means NG-ready |
| Conversion kit included | Needed for NG switch | Buying a “convertible” grill with no kit |
| Orifice and regulator setup | LP and NG parts differ | Mixing propane and NG parts |
| Sear burner presence | Adds a browning zone | Treating it as total capacity |
| Total burner output | Drives heat and recovery | Judging by burner count alone |
| Primary grate area | Real usable cooking space | Counting burners, not square inches |
| Leak test required | Safety after any conversion | Skipping it after switching fuel |
Converting Safely, And When Not To
Conversion should only happen if the grill model and the kit are both designed for natural gas. One manual instructs users to follow the grill owner’s manual and contact the dealer for orifice details rather than guessing. That is the honest limit here: if your grill was not built or sold as convertible, do not force it.
The steps themselves are consistent across manuals. Turn all knobs off, close the gas supply, and remove the LP cylinder before any work begins. Disconnect the tank, remove the LP regulator, install the NG regulator hose, and replace the orifices. Apply soap solution to every gas connection and watch for bubbles during the leak test — bubbles mean a leak, and no bubbles mean you are done.
For readers comparing specific models and specs side by side, our roundup of the best 6 burner bbq grills tested covers grate sizes, burner output, and fuel configurations in one place. The conversion kit instructions from Weber’s manual line up with what that guide assumes you already know about your home setup.
The Short Version
Buy the fuel type your home supports, verify the grill’s actual fuel listing, and treat the sear burner as a bonus rather than a reason to buy. Burner count is the least useful spec on the box; total output, grate area, and fuel compatibility decide whether the grill works for you. If you need natural gas, buy an NG model or a verified kit — and leak-test it before the first cook.
FAQs
Can any propane grill be converted to natural gas?
No. Conversion is only safe if the grill model and the kit are both designed for it. Some manuals explicitly tell users to follow the owner’s manual and contact the dealer for orifice details. Forcing a conversion on a grill that was not built for it risks a leak or a bad flame.
Is a sear burner worth it on a six-burner grill?
It depends on how you cook. A sear burner gives you a dedicated high-heat zone for browning steaks and laying down sear marks, which is genuinely useful. It does not add cooking space to the main grate, so weigh it against total burner output and grate area first.
What does a natural gas conversion actually involve?
Turn the knobs off, close the gas supply, and remove the LP cylinder. Then swap the LP orifices for NG orifices, replace the regulator and hose with the NG setup, and leak-test every connection using soap solution. One manual also requires turning the High Flame Set Screw about 90 degrees clockwise.
References & Sources
- Weber. “Spirit E-325 LP Gas Grill” Confirms US propane fuel type and 20 lb. tank sold separately.
- Weber. “Natural Gas Conversion Kit Instructions” Documents orifice, regulator, leak-test, and High Flame Set Screw steps.
- Weber. “GENESIS E-435 Gas Grill” Shows regional fuel-type variation and sear-zone specs.
