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The pressure switch cycles tank pressure on its own between cut-in and cut-out, while the regulator is the knob you set for your tool.
For the full breakdown, see our best 175 PSI Air Compressor guide.
Reaching for the regulator knob to change when the motor kicks on is the mistake nearly every new owner makes, and it never works because the two controls run separate systems. Getting the pressure switch and regulator on a 175 PSI air compressor to cooperate comes down to one division of labor: the switch owns tank pressure, the regulator owns tool pressure.
The table below spells out every number you’ll see once you start turning knobs.
| Reading Or Setting | What It Tells You | Typical 175 PSI Value |
|---|---|---|
| Cut-out (shut-off) pressure | When the motor stops, tank full | 175 PSI |
| Cut-in (restart) pressure | When the motor starts again | 135 PSI |
| Pressure differential | Gap between restart and shut-off | About 40 PSI |
| Switch preset range | Factory setting on replacement switches | 140 to 175 PSI |
| Minimum on pressure | Lowest cut-in a switch can be set to | 50 PSI |
| Regulator outlet reading | Air pressure reaching the tool | Match the tool’s rating |
| Example tank capacity | Storage on a quiet vertical unit | 26 gallons, 4.5 SCFM at 90 PSI |
What Does The Pressure Switch Do On A 175 PSI Compressor?
The pressure switch is an internal, automatic control that starts and stops the motor based on tank pressure, and the regulator never touches it.
Replacement switches sold for these machines are preset between 140 and 175 PSI, with a minimum on pressure of 50 PSI, a maximum off pressure of 175 PSI, and a pressure differential of 35 to 55 PSI. That gap is why the motor doesn’t fire back up the second it stops.
