A bedside cabinet is a straightforward weekend woodworking project built from plywood or solid wood, cut to size and joined with glue and screws.
For the full breakdown, see our best Narrow Bedside Cabinets guide.
Building your own nightstand lets you match your bedroom’s exact dimensions and style while saving money over store-bought options. The process breaks down into cutting parts, assembling the carcase, squaring it up, adding the top and drawer or door, then sanding and finishing. Before you start, decide on a design—a simple open shelf, a drawer version, or a mix—and a material like 3/4-inch plywood or 1 x 6 boards. If you’re short on floor space, a narrower footprint might suit your room better; our roundup of the best narrow bedside cabinets shows what’s available if you decide to buy instead.
What You Need to Build a Bedside Cabinet
A typical cut list includes two side panels, a top, a bottom, a back panel, and either shelves or a drawer box. Most plans call for 3/4-inch plywood for the carcase and lighter material for the back. You’ll also need wood glue, 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws, a drawer slide if you’re building a drawer, figure-8 table-top fasteners, sandpaper, and your choice of finish. A pocket-hole jig, clamps, a circular saw or table saw, and a drill round out the essential toolkit. Published plans vary in thickness: one bedside cabinet plan specifies frame pieces at 5/8 inch and panels at 7/16 inch, while another uses a 1 x 4 drawer box and 2 x 2 legs.
Cut and Assemble the Carcase
Cut all parts to size first, then mark the faces and edges so you keep the good sides oriented correctly. Dry-fit everything before applying glue—this catches measurement errors while parts are still easy to adjust. For joinery, pocket holes work well for attaching panels, while butt joints with glue and screws handle the top, bottom, and shelf pieces. You can also cut grooves or rabbets into the side panels to accept the shelves, which adds strength without visible screws. When you cut grooves, fence positioning is critical—test pieces first so the tongue is an easy push fit.
Once the carcase is clamped, square it by measuring the diagonals. If they don’t match, adjust the clamps until they do before the glue cures; a racked cabinet will wobble and make drawer fitting miserable later. One project guide explicitly says to measure diagonals and correct any skew before the glue sets. After the glue dries, attach the back panel, then add the top using figure-8 fasteners so it can expand and contract with humidity changes. If you’re adding a drawer, mount the slides level and test the fit before finishing.
Add the Drawer, Door, and Finish
For a drawer version, build the box from 1 x 4 stock so it slides freely inside the opening, then mount a 16-inch drawer slide on each side. For a door version, mark the hinge locations with a knife and try square—this gives a precise line that a pencil can’t—then rout the hinge mortises and screw the door in place. Sand everything through the grits, easing sharp edges, then apply your finish. Exposed plywood edges should be covered with edge banding or wood filler; a door face usually needs some sanding after installation. Add knobs or pulls, then set the cabinet upright and check that the drawer or door operates smoothly.
| Part | Typical Material | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Side panels | 3/4-inch plywood | Cut both sides identically |
| Top and bottom | 3/4-inch plywood | Attach top with figure-8 fasteners |
| Back panel | 1/4-inch plywood | Nail or screw into the back edges |
| Drawer box | 1 x 4 boards | Test fit before installing slides |
| Legs (optional) | 2 x 2 stock | Adds height and a furniture look |
Bedside Cabinet Safety: Don’t Skip the Anchors
Store heavier items in lower drawers or on the bottom shelf to keep the center of gravity low. If you buy a used piece, inspect it first: check for broken or loose legs, sagging drawers, and loose hardware before you bring it inside. See how the best narrow bedside cabinets handle storage and safety if you’d rather not build one.
FAQs
What wood is best for a bedside cabinet?
Plywood is the most practical choice for a first build—it’s stable, affordable, and available in 3/4-inch thickness. Solid pine or oak boards look great but require more careful joinery and can expand with humidity. Use plywood for the carcase and solid wood only if you’re comfortable with wood movement.
How long does it take to build a nightstand?
A simple cabinet takes a full weekend: one day for cutting and assembling the carcase, plus a second day for the drawer, hardware, and finish. Drying time for glue and finish adds waiting periods, so plan around those. A basic open-shelf version can be done in a single day if you use pocket screws and skip the drawer.
Do I need a pocket-hole jig to build one?
No—but it makes assembly noticeably easier. You can use butt joints with glue and screws, or cut rabbets and dados for a stronger joint without the jig. If you’re building more than one cabinet, the jig pays for itself in time saved.
References & Sources
- Woodworkers Journal. “Bedside Cabinet Project Guide.” Provides cut lists, dimensions, and joinery steps.
- Fine Woodworking. “Bedside Table Project.” Details panel thicknesses and joinery techniques.
- AHFA Furniture Safety. “Furniture Tip-Over Prevention Checklist.” Explains anchoring requirements and ASTM F3096-23 compliance.
